TIMBER FLOORING

Floating Floor or Glue Down


In this article we cover the differences between floating flooring and glued down (direct stuck) timber flooring, and the different situations they are suitable for. Note we are discussing timber flooring not laminate flooring - all our laminates should be floated. Glue Down Method The glue down (aka Direct Stuck) method involves fixing your floor directly to the substrate using an adhesive. This is our preferred method of installation for most circumstances as it provides a floor that is firmer and quieter to walk on and eliminates the risk of squeaking joints. However in some circumstances a floating floor may be more suitable.
Pros: Quieter to walk on than a floating floor - less risk of hollow noise Feels nice and firm to walk on like a solid timber floor Can be used with most under floor heating systems No trims necessary - so you can achieve a seamless look between rooms and/or transitions into different areas such as carpet or tiles Suitable for parquet pattern flooring
Cons: Best suited to either concrete or plywood subfloors Usually more expensive to install as you will need glue and moisture barrier Takes a little longer to install Not recommended in earthquake-prone areas May not be suitable for installing over existing floor coverings such as tiles
Floating Method Floating floors are not directly fixed to the subfloor but are instead laid over an underlay without any glue, relying on the weight of the floor and the floors joint system to keep it in place. The floating method is not our preferred method of installation however it may be the best option if time or cost are of concern, and it is also a wise option to take if you are installing in an earthquake-prone area.
Please note: We recommend all floating floors to have a locking joint system - Flooring with T&G joints should not be floated. Please ensure your flooring is specified compatible with floating by the manufacturer before commencing installation.
Pros: Generally a cheaper option Quick to install Great for installing over radiant heat systems Can work over just about any subfloor, providing it meets the recommended tolerances - e.g. Plywood, ceramic tile, lino floors, concrete and more Can be used for temporary floors
Cons: Noisier to walk on than glue-down flooring and joints may squeak Doesn't feel as firm to walk on Edge trims are mandatory as the floor needs to be able to move Expansion gaps must be allowed or you risk the floor squeaking Subfloor must be flat otherwise you risk having hollow-sounding areas Not suitable for most parquet pattern flooring

For all flooring installations we would like to recommend that you get a professional and reputable floor-layer to perform the installation.
Professional floor layers have the tools and expertise and will be able to lay more efficiently than yourself or any builder and prevent any wastage from mistakes. Using a professional installer will save you time and provide an end result that is of utmost quality. Be sure to contact us if you would like to know what installers we recommend in your area - we would be more than happy to help.

We wish you the best of luck with your timber flooring installation!




What is 'Smoked' flooring


Smoked or fumed flooring is flooring that has been treated to alter the colour and tone of the wood.Smoking was an accidental discovery, made centuries ago in England after it was noticed that oak beams in horse stables had darkened from exposure to the ammonia fumes from the horses’ urine. Since then, smoking has become a very popular wood treatment process among furniture makers and has been widely used to add a special dark appeal to floors.What is involved in the smoking process? The smoking process for flooring involves putting the timber into an enclosed environment and releasing ammonia (a naturally occurring chemical) into the air. The ammonia in the air incites a reaction with the tannins (naturally occurring chemicals) in the wood, causing the wood to darken in colour. The intensity of the colour and tone change depends on how long the wood is exposed to the ammonia. Hotter temperatures during the fuming process typically result in more red tones whilst cooler temperatures results in more green tones. What are the unique characters of a Smoked floor? Besides darkening of the wood's natural colour, and a possible change in hue - smoking also results in increased colour variation within each board and between planks. Each piece of wood is unique and reacts differently to the smoking process depending on its tannin content. Boards from the same batch, and even different regions within a single board, can become significantly lighter or darker in colour as a result of the smoking process. This colour variation is unavoidable, and should be considered part of the unique character of a smoked product. Why is Oak so popular for smoking? Oak timbers are a popular choice for smoking because of their high tannin content, which produces a more rich and intense colour change. The colour of the Oak can be changed from light brown to very dark brown, depending on the length of the smoking process - whereas many other timbers will only darken by a few shades. Advantage of smoking over stainingSmoking offers an advantage over staining as it effects a colour change throughout, as opposed to a stain which only colours the surface of the timber. This means if the surface of the floor gets scratched, the colour underneath is the same and won't stand out (which can happen with dark stained flooring). It also means that should you need to re-sand your floor down the track, you won't be removing a coloured coating but rather will retain the original colour of your floor. For this reason, smoked flooring is ideal for use in high traffic areas where scratches are inevitable.




Deciding What Direction to Lay Timber Flooring


We believe that timber flooring looks most beautiful when viewed looking down the length of the plank - this allows your eye to travel seamlessly down the board and take in the beautiful grain pattern of the natural timber. Alternatively when the flooring is viewed looking across the width of the planks, the planks joints visually cut off your line of sight, making the beautiful pattern become less of a feature and the joints themselves more noticeable. This is especially valid when working with narrow plank flooring. It is also wise to take in account that flooring laid horizontally in a space will make it appear even wider, whereas if it is laid vertically the room will appear longer.

Your eye is naturally drawn down the length of flooring planks so you can use them to lead to a feature that you want to show off! Flooring can be laid strategically so that it draws the eye in the direction of a focal point. For example in a house with floor-to-ceiling windows and a stunning outlook you might choose to lay the flooring so that it leads your eye towards the view. You could also use flooring to lead your eye to a feature wall, a piece of art and so much more!
Large rooms & open-plan spaces Plank flooring: You can choose to lay the flooring along the longest length of the room, or alternatively in the direction you will be most commonly be walking in the space. This will ensure you are looking down the length of the plank the majority of the time and are able to admire the beautiful grain pattern of the natural timber. If you'd like to make a feature of an area of your floor you can go against this advice and lay the planks on a 45 degree angle - this is a sure way to create a statement!

You may also like to consider how the flooring will meet with outdoor surfaces such as decking and whether you want it all to run in the same direction or to change between the indoor/outdoor spaces.

Herringbone & Chevron: Herringbone & chevron flooring planks are usually laid on 45 degree angles so that the two angles together point down the longest lengths of the room. To create interest or make an eyecatching statement, you can lay herringbone so the the planks are straight against the walls - this will visually create more of a squares effect rather than an arrows effect. Adjoining areas Plank flooring: When laying flooring throughout a series of rooms we recommend considering where the doorways are and how people will move throughout the space. Where possible it is good to keep the floor running in the same direction as too many changes can make the space look busy. However it is entirely possible that somewhere in a plan you'll come up against some adjoining spaces or rooms where the timber flooring may need to change direction.
Scenario 1 - An open-plan area where the room splits off on an angle. We suggest to have the planks mitered so that they meet at a point where the angle of the room changes. You could also have a plank border installed between the two angles if you wish to define between the areas (see photos for an example).
Scenario 2 - Rooms off hallways or adjoining rooms. Here we suggest installing a plank border across the doorframe to help define and separate the spaces (see photos for example).

Herringbone & Chevron: Where at all possible it is recommended to keep herringbone flooring running in the same direction as any direction change will make things look busy. For smaller or adjoining spaces you may like to switch from Herringbone to a matching plank to avoid the space looking too busy. Hallways & Narrow spaces Plank flooring: In long narrow spaces such as hallways we recommend laying the timber flooring planks down the longest length of the room. This will ensure you are looking down the length of the plank the majority of the time and are able to admire the beautiful grain pattern of the natural timber. If you do wish to lay planks horizontally across a hallway we recommend using a wide planks for the best effect. Again, if you want to make a feature of your hallway floor you can go against all previous advice and lay your plank flooring on a 45 degree angle - this is a sure way to create a statement!

Herringbone & Chevron: In long or narrow spaces we recommend to lay chevron or herringbone planks at 45 degree angles so that the two angles together point down the longest lengths of the room. Corners Plank flooring: If you come across a corner (for example in a hallway), you could will probably want to adjust the direction of your flooring to suit. One way you could do this is by mitering the planks so that the ends meet perfectly at the corner. Alternatively, a weave-type effect could be used where the straight ends of the planks run into each other alternately at the corner (see photos for example).

Herringbone & Chevron: If you come across a corner with herringbone or chevron flooring we recommend continuing the flooring in the same direction - any change is going to disrupt the pattern and create a negative visual distraction - not to mention make the flooring look busier than it already is. Odd-shaped spaces Plank flooring: Odd-shaped rooms can make it quite difficult to determine which way to lay your flooring. Generally we suggest either laying the planks down the longest length of the majority of the area, or in the direction that people will mostly be walking. You will usually want to line the flooring up with at least one straight wall if possible.

Herringbone & Chevron
We suggest laying the planks at 45 degree angles to longest length of the majority of the area, or laying them at 45 degree angles to the direction that people will mostly be walking. Stairs Plank flooring: Planks are most commonly laid across the tread of the stair. However in some cases, for example in a hallway with a small flight of stairs, you could opt to have the stairs laid down the tread so as not to interrupt the line of sight.

Herringbone & Chevron: We don't recommend installing herringbone or chevron on stairs unless you want to drive your installer crazy! Don't forget the Walls! Timber can also be laid on walls to create a stunning tactile feature. Planks laid horizontally on a wall or will make the wall appear wider, while if laid vertically the wall will appear higher. Planks laid diagonally will make a stunning statement and draw extra attention to the wall. You should consider the direction of the flooring in the room and how it works with the wall- running the feature wall parallel to the flooring will result in your eye being drawn down the planks and straight to the wall, whilst laying perpendicular will create an entirely different effect.




Solid Timber vs Engineered: What Should I Choose


How is the Structure of Engineered Timber Flooring different to Solid Timber Flooring? Solid timber flooring is 100% solid hardwood right the way through the plank. In comparison, Engineered timber flooring has a top layer of hardwood timber veneer, which has been glued and pressed onto the top of an engineered core. The core is the base that makes up the rest of the flooring plank apart from the veneer. The core's composition can vary widely from brand to brand, but is generally made up of either a hardwood and/or soft plywood, with the best engineered wood floors having between 6 and 12 multi-ply layers that are glued cross-directionally and pressed together.
Wear Layer Explained The tongue and groove (or locking joint system in some floors) is what hold the flooring together when it is laid. The wear layer, as illustrated in the diagram, is the area of hardwood that is LOCATED ABOVE THE TONGUE. With any timber floor you can only sand back to the top of the tongue or joint system - any further and the floor will have nothing to hold it together. In that case, it doesn't matter what is below the tongue, it is never going to be visible - and therefore why not have an engineered floor? With an engineered floor, you are helping to conserve precious hardwood timber by using only approx one third as much as you would with a solid timber floor.

Engineered Floor wear layers vary in thickness between brands. Wear layer thickness directly affects the number of future resands your floor will be able to take - The thicker your wear layer, the more resands. The general rule of thumb is to allow 1mm per resand, plus 1mm or so for a buffer zone. A 6mm wear layer (closest equivalent to a solid timber floor) should take between 4-5 resands, while a 3mm wear layer should take 1-2 resands, and so on. Note that products with thicker wear layers also tend to be more expensive, so if you have a smaller budget you may choose a thinner wear layer.
What are the benefits of Engineered Timber Flooring? 1. More Stable than Solid Timber Flooring
The greatest benefit of Engineered Timber Flooring is is increased resistance to higher and lower moisture levels than solid wood flooring, which means it is much less susceptible to shrinkage, warping or cupping. This makes it perfect for New Zealand's humid climate conditions! 2. Can be glued down*
Just like solid timber flooring, most engineered timber floors can be direct glued down over dry concrete slabs or a wooden subfloor. *Disclaimer: Please check with the manufacturer to ensure what installation methods are suitable for your flooring. 3. Will give you the look and feel of a Solid Timber floor*
If the floor is installed as you would a solid floor, it will also feel just the same as a Solid Timber Floor to walk on. Once installed, the base layer is hidden underneath the floor and nobody will know that it is not a solid timber floor. It will add the same resale value to your home. 4. Many options available
Just like Solid Timber flooring, Engineered flooring is available in a number of different widths, lengths and thicknesses. It is also available pre-finished, eliminating the need for sanding and finishing on site and meaning your floor is ready to use much quicker! 5. Uses Less Precious Hardwood Resource
Most engineered flooring uses approximately one third of the amount of solid hardwood resource compared to solid timber flooring. Therefore engineered flooring is helping to conserve our precious hardwood resources! 6. Products to suit most budgets
Engineered flooring is now very comparable in price to solid timber flooring of equivalent thickness. Thickness directly affects the price of engineered flooring and it is also available in thinner options for those with a smaller budget.
7. Faster to Install
Engineered flooring is almost always machined to a higher standard that solid timber flooring, with joint profiles for the most part being highly consistent. The boards are usually pretty straight too, and the tongue and grooves tend to maintain their size well due to being engineered so they do not swell with moisture. Therefore engineered boards usually fit together very smoothly. On the other hand, solid timber is often difficult to install due lower tolerances in the machining which leads to variances in joints profiles. Also boards can take up moisture, causing the joints to swell and/or causing bowing or cupping to the whole length of the board. This is not always the case but when it does happen it can make the floor very difficult to install.
8. Less Wastage
With any engineered flooring, you should be able to use every piece of flooring that you buy as it has been strictly graded and should have no structural defects or characteristics outside of the grade that you ordered. However with solid timber flooring, there is always a percentage of product that is not usable, due to cracks or loose knots, or other structural defects. Things to be Cautious of Before Buying Engineered Flooring Price vs Quality
As with most products on the marketplace, there are some good brands and some really bad brands. Generally you get what you pay for - so if an engineered floor is unusually cheap, it is probably poor quality. Try to buy from a reputable store that has been in the industry for a reasonable amount of time and has a wealth of knowledge on the product, rather than a cheap importer who is here today, gone tomorrow and can't help you with product information. Compare Apples with Apples
If you are looking at a number of different products, ensure you are taking into account the plank thickness and width, and wear layer - thinner, narrower planks will usually be cheaper but that is because they take less resources to make, they are not necessarily a bargain. Remember not to judge solely on price, but to compare the quality also. Check the makeup of the core - a 6-12 layer cross-directional ply will be more stable than a 3-layer product. Check the Warranties
Check that the product has a warranty. Often this will tell you a lot about the quality of the product - Poor quality products usually have shorter (or nonexistant) warranties, while good quality products should have a longer warranty.
For Pre-finished Engineered Floors:
Check that the floor will not need further finishing after installation. Some suppliers cheat customers into thinking their flooring is pre-finished when it is really only partially finished and will require a final finishing coat after installation. This means the supplier is able to give you a cheaper price but in the long run it may end up more expensive (and time-consuming) than a fully-finished floor. Be cautious of pre-finished natural oiled floors. Although they have a beautiful matte finish, most require regular maintenance oiling, a fact which some suppliers fail to advise the consumer at the point of sale. If left untended they can dry out and crack, and are then ruined. For this reason we do not supply them. How to Choose the right Engineered Flooring Product for your Project The first step to working out what product you need is to assess your budget and also check if there are any height requirements for the situation it will be used in and the intended installation method. Budget:
Generally the thicker the product (and wear layer), the more expensive it will be. If you're on a tight budget a thinner flooring option will be a more affordable option. If your budget is unlimited, the world is your oyster - you could get the thickest flooring available, in the widest plank and with the biggest wear layer, giving you more resands. Height Requirements:
In some situations you there may be a height requirement you need to meet - it is wise to always check with your builder on this. For example, if you are overlaying the flooring on an existing surface and need to minimise thickness you may require a thinner product like a 15mm option. On the other hand, if laying over joists, you will need a thicker option such as 21mm to ensure ultimate stability. Intended Installation Method:
We usually recommend timber flooring to be installed using the direct-stick method, as it gives a firmer feel underfoot and eliminates any hollow noise. Most flooring can be direct-stuck regardless of joint system (tongue & groove or locking joint), although please check with the manufacturer. However, in some places installers prefer to float flooring over an underlay - in which case your flooring will need a locking joint system.
Personal preference:
From here it all comes down to personal preference - what colours are available, whether you like the idea of a solid-equivalent thickness of floor, what plank width you prefer, etc etc! Choosing an Installer Almost more important than the product you choose, is the person you choose to install it. Installing an engineered floor is a tricky task and we highly recommend you get a skilled flooring installer to do the job. No, not your builder - even if he thinks he can do it! Most reputable suppliers will be able to recommend a good installer for their product. If not, you could try looking online - be sure to check for positive reviews. The ultimate is an installer that is approved by the ATFA (Australasian Timber Flooring Association), as they will have done the required training to become a master at flooring installation.

Good luck on choosing your new Engineered Timber Flooring!




What is the best Coating for my Timber Floor


What is the best Coating for my Timber Floor? We often have people come to us asking for an oiled wood floor - but is this really what you want? In this article we are going to explain the common types of finishes available in Australia today. These include Lacquer (sometimes called Polyurethane), UV cured Oil, Oil (non-cured) finishes.
What is the best Coating for my Timber Floor?

So, what is the best option for you?
From our experience, Aussie typically live a very relaxed lifestyle and are not fastidious about taking shoes off indoors - a common practice in Europe. Also many do not have the time to maintain and care for an Oil floor the way it should be cared for, which can lead to the Oiled floor drying out and cracking.

Lacquered floors tend to suit the majority of the population in Australia as they are extremely hardwearing, easy to clean and do not require maintenance coats. These days they are available in very matte finishes, similar to the look of an oiled wood floor.

In saying that, if you are prepared for the expense and the care and maintenance required of an Oiled floor or UV Oiled floor, there is no doubt you the look of these floors is stunning and the most natural looking surface you can get.

We hope that after reading this you will have gained some valuable knowledge that assists you in making a wise choice on your flooring. After all it is a choice you will have to live with!




Narrow or Wide Planks - What Is Best For My Space


Did you know the plank size you choose can have a huge impact on the perception of your room? Choose the wrong size and you can make a big room appear smaller, or extremely busy... On the other hand, choosing the right plank size will enhance the size of the room and give it a feeling of harmony.
Rules to keep and rules to break: Number one rule: Always choose a plank size that matches the proportions of the room. The narrower the plank the busier it will look, the wider the plank the cleaner it will look. BUT too wide a plank in a small space can make it look obviously out of proportion. You have to get the balance just right. Number two rule: You do not have to stick to one plank size throughout the entire space. For example, some larger homes have vast open-plan areas as well as smaller spaces such as bedrooms - and sticking to one flooring width does not look right throughout the entire home. Here you may want to think about using a standard width plank for the bedrooms as opposed to a wide plank for the larger areas. Number three rule: Jazz it up! Don't be afraid to take risks - Make a feature entranceway with a chevron pattern and use a standard plank throughout the rest of the space. Make a border around each room. Install flooring running across a room and right up the wall. Run your flooring pattern diagonally. Use your imagination and have fun! Why are Narrower Planks Cheaper? Plank width (along with thickness) directly affects the price of a timber floor as the wider the plank, the less you can get out of the tree and the more wastage there will be, therefore the product is more expensive.
So what plank width suits my room size? Small and medium-sized rooms: Almost all small and medium-sized spaces do well with an average-width plank (150-200mm wide) as it helps small spaces to appear larger. If using a parquet pattern in a small to medium sized space, you may be best to go with the standard size plank (70x490mm)
Large rooms or open-plan areas: A wide plank will best enhance the space, helping it to appear less cluttered and larger than it really is. If using a parquet pattern, a wide format option (190x600mm) would be recommended, otherwise a smaller pattern may make the room appear too busy.
Vast rooms or areas: An extreme-wide plank will give the ultimate feeling of grandeur.




Understanding Colour & Grain Variation


Colour variation Due to being natural product, the boards of a natural timber floor will never be consistent in colour - you will always get some boards that are lighter or darker than the majority of the rest. Even if the flooring has been stained you will see variation, as different parts of the tree absorb stains at different rates causing some boards to be darker than others. When reactive stains are used (such as with our Manor Collection range) the colour variation is often be accentuated even further.

The good news is, an experienced installer will be able to distribute these lighter or darker boards throughout your laying space so that they are less prominent and add to the character look of your floor. We believe colour variation is part of the natural beauty of timber and helps to set a real timber floor apart from imitation wood floors. If you have concerns about colour variation you could ask your installer to leave aside any significantly different-colored boards. However do take into account this will leave you with less boards for your project. A good tip is to use them in a less frequented area such as in a cupboard or wardrobe or under a fridge.
Grain pattern variation Another characteristic of natural timber flooring is the variation in grain pattern - you will never see two boards the same. Some boards may have a very straight grain, some may be wavy, others will have knots and cracks and possibly even sapwood. So what determines the amount and type of grain variation in your timber floor? This is known as the grade of your flooring, and luckily the flooring industry have some commonly-accepted terms that describe the different grades available. A higher grade of timber will be more consistent and clear in appearance, while a lower grade of timber is likely to display more natural characteristics such as gum vein, knots, sapwood and colour variation, resulting in a more rustic, old-world charm. The higher grades are characteristically more expensive because the demand is high and only a small percentage of trees that are milled yield high grade boards - the lower the grade, the less expensive the timber should be.




Why Are Most of our Timber Floors Made From Oak


As some of you may have noticed, the majority of our timber flooring is made from Oak. There are many different species of Oak in the world - Here at skov we mostly use European Oak (sourced from regions such as France, Germany, Russia) as it has a more attractive grain pattern and does not yellow from exposure to sunlight as much as American Oak species. Oak is one of the most commonly used flooring timbers throughout the world for a number of very good reasons. Hardwearing: Firstly, Oak is a hardwood and is much more dense than most of our common native AUS timbers, making it more difficult to dent or scratch.
Readily Available: Oak is a readily available species and is grown in many countries. In terms of conservation, Oak is a species of least concern.
Affordable: Due to its being readily available, Oak is one of the more affordable hardwood flooring timbers available on the market
Highly Adaptable: Above all other woods Oak takes very well to staining and colouring, and because of this a vast array of colour options can be acheived. It is available in shades from limed white to natural colour to very dark, and most colours in between.
Attractive: Oak has a very attractive grain pattern which is ideal for flooring. It is available in prime grades which are clean and mostly knot-free, or rustic or feature grades which have a higher percentage of knots and other interesting characteristics.
Improves with Age: Like a good red wine, Oak improves with age. Even after a couple of years the natural Oak colour will obtain a richer appearance. Regular care and maintenance combined with simple damage prevention methods will assist in preserving the integrity and longevity of your floor.




Creative Ways to Lay Chevron Timber Flooring


Did you know Chevron timber flooring can be used to make a number of different patterns? Why not try some of these for your next project! Click the images below for more...




Can I install timber flooring over the underfoot heating


With the right experience, moisture testing, understanding of the radiant heat system and knowledge about the wood flooring being used, contractors can make wood flooring over radiant heat work - even work extremely well. The builder should be open to learning everything you can teach him about wood flooring and moisture and you should feel that the radiant heat installer, HVAC contractor, plumber and electrician are all competent and know what they’re doing, not experimenting with their first radiant heat job. You’ll also need to know exactly what kind of HVAC systems will be installed. By code, radiant-heated homes must have some kind of ventilation system, and they are often supplemented with a typical forced-air system that includes air conditioning. There should also be systems in place to help stabilise humidity year-round. All of this, along with knowledge, will help to predict what kind of moisture swings the floor will experience. Even the job site is manageable, it's still critical to educate everyone involved, especially the homeowner, about wood flooring expansion and contraction, snd why they need to control the humidity levels in their home. What products will be suitable for underfoot heating 1. Narrower widths 2. Engineered floors 3. Parquet 4. Dark Floors 5. Beveled edges 6. Dimensionally stable species




European Oak vs American Oak


Oak flooring is highly sought-after as one of the most dependable wooden flooring options available on the market, so why not know a little more about the wooden flooring beneath your feet!

Not all Oaks are the same. To the untrained eye European and American Oak may appear very similar but both of these species have distinct characteristics that set them apart from each other, such as natural colour, tone variation, plank length, and distinctive grain patterns.

Species and origin:
European Oak (Quercus Robur) is native to Europe. It is a temperate wood that grows taller than the average American oak species and is often used for specialty longer length planks. American Oak (Quercus Alba) is predominantly found in the eastern parts of North America and tend to grow shorter and thicker. Both species are know as 'White' Oaks and are durable and strong, with a longstanding reputation of longevity.

Colour:
European Oak is darker with a naturally rich golden honey hue, while American Oak is lighter and more yellow in colour with the occasional pinkish hue.

Colour variation:
European Oak has a more even colour tone from board to board than American Oak which can show greater contrasts between lighter and darker shades especially in the grain pattern.

Grain pattern:
European Oak tends to have a more wavy and interesting grain pattern, while American Oak tends to have a large and predominantly straight grain pattern.

Finishing:
European Oak has a higher tannin content and less sapwood which enables it to absorb stains much more more consistently than American Oak. As well as this it reacts very well when subjected to reactive stains, fuming and aging processes.

At Forte all the vast majority of our timber flooring is made using European or French Oak due to its beautiful colour, exquisite grain pattern and the versatility of finishing processes it allows.





CONCRETE WALL

Wet Area Installations – Showers/Saunas/Steam Room


Our products are water resistant and are suitable for wet areas applications such as shower walls, floors, countertops, etc. All sub-walls and floors should be adequately treated with proper moisture barriers and additional sealant may be required to avoid water seeping behind panels. For example, panels should be coated in a Rubio Monocoat oil with a silicone sealant between panels. The Rubio oil should be maintained yearly to keep the panels water proofed.

Concreate products are suitable for sauna/ steam room applications as well. Because there are substantial differences from a shower environment, any installer should be extremely careful and cautious and not take any cost cutting risks.

Buyers assume ALL responsibility with regards to the labor and installation.




Ceiling Installations


Our wall panels weigh just 7 KG per square metre and make for a stunning and unique ceiling installation.

Additional adhesive may be required depending on the design and type of installation. Nails and/or screws (pre-drill and then back fill the holes with matching grout) may be used for additional security as well.




Outdoor Installations


Our products are suitable for exterior wall or floor applications.

For outdoor walls, we recommend our floor planks which are suitable to a vertical installation; the ½” tongue and grove edge and the mineral cement board substrate provides for superior insulation compared with most tile products and can be applied and installed much like any tile or stone. It requires no grout while the tongue and grove create a perfectly flush surface without nearly as much effort required when using traditional tile or stone products. Our wall panels are quite suitable as well!

Exterior applications should be applied to any sound, dry and flat subsurface and due to varied outdoor conditions by region, bonding agents for any outdoor installation should be tested by the installer to confirm bonding prior to installation. Normal fading overtime depends on UV exposure.

Where water exposure is a concern, additional installation/sealant steps should be taken to avoid water seeping behind panels. For example, panels should be coated in Rubio Monocoat oil with a silicone sealant between panels. The Rubio oil should be maintained yearly to keep the panels water proofed.




Fireplace Installations


Concreate products are perfectly suited for fireplace cladding and is one of the most popular uses of our products! Our wall panels have a Class A fire rating and the flooring products have equivalent international fire ratings




Kick up the Kitchen with a Backsplash or Cabinet Cladding


Kick up your kitchen design overnight with a Concreate concrete backsplash. Our wall panels are perfectly suited for a kitchen backsplash and easy to install! The panels are water and stain resistant and clean easily with oil-based soaps. Cabinets may also be easily cladded for a whole new look! Wall panels weigh just 7KG per square metre, cut easily and install with just adhesive. The options are endless!

The wall panels or floor planks also work well as table or counter tops! Although we do not recommend them on food prep areas; as strong as they are, they have not been tested against the mad knife skills of Australia’s top chefs!




Grout – only if you want to!


Grout is not required with our products; the panels are designed to butt joint together for a clean fit. Some prefer the look as a design choice of course and that’s ok! During installation, in the event of small gaps from less than square wall or when wrapping outside edges as seen in the Wall Installation Video, small bits of grout may be needed. We suggest the Fusion Pro Single Component Grout. which is available in a variety of colors to match and readily available locally.




What's the difference between Concreate and Tile





What's the difference between Concreate and polished or poured concrete






302 Penshurst Street                          02 8872 4409

North Willoughby  NSW 2068          sales@skov.com.au